Steep inclines and descents on this section through the remote Cantabrian Mountains are tough but the panoramic views make it worthwhile.
This explores the first section of the Camino Primitivo, or Original Way. Here, you embark from the capital of the Asturias province, Oviedo, and cross the Cantabrian Mountain range. With some steep sections up and down you need to fit for this. But with this great effort comes spectacular views and panoramas over the mountains before descending into the Galician countryside and finishing in the town of Lugo.
FREE This trip createstonne(s) of CO2, we offset it for free
Highlights
Oviedo
Oviedo is the starting point of the Camino Primitivo or Original Way and where the Camino del Norte ends. Here in this characterful city you will find a wonderful pedestrianised historic quarter where you can wander and discover the many statues, squares with lively bars and cafes as well as the Cathedral with its statue of King Alfonso. A specialty here in Oviedo is cider so be sure to stop in one of the many chigres (cider bars) and sample some local cider paired with local delicacies. Food will surprise you her with a mix of locally grown vegetable dishes, cheese meat and although not by the sea fish dishes, all with that typical Asturian touch.
Cantabrian Mountains
The Camino Primitivo takes you up into the Cantabrian Mountain range. With some steep sections up and down you need to be prepared fitness wise for this. But with this great effort comes spectacular views and panoramas over the mountains. The effort to walk up will not be the only thing to take your breath away on this section. Witness the rugged natural landscape, discover tiny towns and villages in the mountains and take in the modern windmills on the mountains reminding you that you are not lost in time!
Church of Santa María de Vilabade
The plain exterior of the Church of Santa María de Vilabade disguises a beautiful interior, so if open when passing be sure to stop in. The exterior is a mix of Gothic, Neoclassical and baroque making a striking facade at the front. Inside this national historic monument the main wooden altar is the real draw with is statues of St James on horseback.
Oviedo to Lugo
Camino Primitivo
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Day Tours to Local Sites of Interest
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Itinerary
Day 1
OVIEDO (Arrival)
You will be booked into a hotel in the heart of the town of Oviedo. The capital of the Asturias province is a wonderful place to explore. Of note is the Cathedral of San Salvador and the Cámara Santa de Oviedo within it, a vault housing the cathedral’s relics that is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The downtown Plaza de la Escandalera and Plaza del Fontán in the old quarter are also great places to experience life in Oviedo passing by.
Day 2 25.02km
OVIEDO
to
GRADO
Our day begins at the Cathedral of El Salvador and, after leaving town, we head west. We arrive at the chapel of El Carmen in Lampajúa (Llampaxuga) and from here descend toward Ponte de Gallegos. The Camino then follows a beautiful trail along the river Nora to finish in a steep ascent to the lovely village of Escamplero. As we get closer to the river Nalón, we cross the N-634 highway, and the river itself over a bridge.
Day 3 22.12km
GRADO
to
SALAS
We begin this day with a tough start, climbing up for 5km to Alto del Fresnu. You will then enjoy a gentle downhill walk through hilly farmlands and hamlets until you reach Cornellana. Here, we recommend a visit to the monastery of El Salvador. From here to Salas, the Camino follows an upwards trajectory through more farmland and typical Asturias granaries (horreos). Finally, we approach the town of Salas on more gentle terrain.
Day 4 19.99km
SALAS
to
TINEO
This is a tough stage of the Camino, not because of its length (it’s actually shorter than some of the other days), but because it is ascending constantly. Fortunately, most of the climb is concentrated at the beginning of the day, with the ascent gentler towards evening. Following the national road for a short while, the Camino continues on a quieter, paved path that leads us to La Espina. Here we leave the Camino Norte that continues north-west. We now enter an area around Tineo with strong Asturian character and traditions.
Day 5 29.52km
TINEO
to
POLA DE ALLENDE
This is another challenging stage of the Camino, with ups and downs throughout the day. After following the road for a short time, the Camino comes to a path descending through woodlands. Then it passes the small villages of Vega el Rey, Berrugoso, and Campiello. We finish the day with a steep descent of about 300m to arrive in Pola de Allande.
Day 6 17.2km
POLA DE ALLENDE
to
BERDUCEDO
Today begins with an ascent of almost 600m before reaching the summit of Puerto del Palo. Here, your climb will be rewarded with amazing views of the Cantabrian Mountains. This is followed by a drop of 250m on what is called the ‘Camino de los Hospitales’ or Hospital Road, so be prepared for slips and be careful! Finally, passing through some woods, we arrive in Berducedo for the evening’s rest.
Day 7 20.48km
BERDUCEDO
to
GRANDAS DE SALIME
This is the most rewarding part of the Camino Primitivo, but also one of the hardest. We start by climbing to Aerogeneradores (wind turbines) at 1,100m above sea level, where you will get spectacular views of the Embalse de Salime (an artificial lake), the River Navia below and, of course, the mountains surrounding us! Then, it is a steep descent of 900m over just 7km of track. Finally, passing the dam of Embalse de Salime, the Camino makes its way up to town of Grandas Salime.
Day 8 25.74km
GRANDAS DE SALIME
to
A FONSAGRADA
Today the Camino starts with a steep ascent to El Acebo Pass (at an elevation of 1,050m) for some fine views of the Cantabrian Mountains. It is now time to bid our farewell to Asturias and to say hello to the traditional land of the Celts – Galicia! After passing the mountain villages of Cabreria, Fonfría, and Barbeito, we arrive in A Fonsagrada for a well-deserved rest! In the town centre stands the Fons Sacra. This town bore witness to one of the miracles of the Apostle St James, who, after being attended to by an impoverished widow, turned the water from this fountain into fresh milk for her children.
Day 9 24.22km
A FONSAGRADA
to
O CADAVO BALEIRA
After leaving A Fonsagrada, the Camino passes through A Pobra de Buron. Coming to Hospital de Montouto, we can see the actual hospital sitting on a hilltop. It is now in ruins, but was one of the last to close before the Spanish Civil War, and was probably the most important on all the mountain Caminos of Galicia. There is also a magnificent dolmen in the vicinity of the hospital. We then make our way to the town of O Cadavo, passing quaint villages such as Calzada, Degolada, and A Fontaneira. O Cadavo is the second most important town that the pilgrims on the Camino Primitivo will pass on their way to Santiago. According to local history, Alphonse II the Chaste fought the Moorish Army nearby.
Day 10 30.53km
O CADAVO BALEIRA
to
LUGO
The Camino continues through lands famous for their slate mines. This attractive village, which retains much of its original character, is home to a number of ‘Pallozas’ (primitive thatched dwellings) and other buildings of interest. Then, passing by the convent of San Francisco de Vilabade, we arrive in the pleasant town of Castroverde. After Castroverde, the Camino passes the abandoned village of Soutomerille, nestled in a landscape of great beauty. Finally, crossing farmland, the Way arrives in Lugo by the Gate of Saint Peter.
Day 11
LUGO
After breakfast we bid you farewell. For the explorers, Lugo is famous for its Muralla Romana de Lugo, Roman walls constructed in the 3rd Century, and the Lugo Cathedral is also worth visiting. But you can also just follow a tapas route around the city and unwind after your journey!
How to Get There
Getting to Oviedo, Spain
It is best to fly to Santander or Oviedo
Fly into Santander
Ryanair is the only low-cost airline that currently offers direct flights to Santander. They offer flights from London Stansted and now Dublin, Frankfurt, Milan and Rome, as well as Reus and Madrid in Spain. Iberia offers a good selection of internal flights from Alicante, Barcelona, Gran Canaria, Malaga, Palma de Mallorca, Seville and Valencia.
From Santander to Oviedo: buses (takes 3h), several a day.
Fly into Oviedo
Oviedo Airport is located 47Km northwest of Oviedo, 17 Km west of Aviles. Buses run every 2 to 3 hours during daytime, the cost from/to Oviedo is approximately €5 and from/to Aviles is approximately €3.
Getting home from Lugo, Spain
Fly from Santiago de Compostela
Ryanair andIberia/BA fly direct to Santiago de Compostela from the UK. Ryanair flies from Stansted, Nottingham East Midlands and Liverpool andAer Lingus operates from Dublin. Many of the flights that arrive at the airport are from internal Spanish destinations. Iberia offers the best selection of flights and you can fly to and from Santiago De Compostela from: Frankfurt, Paris and Rome and Barcelona, Bilbao, Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, Madrid, Malaga, Palma, Seville, Tenerife and Valencia.
From Lugo to Santiago airport it is an easy 1hr30 by bus.
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